Ama Dablam Expedition

Amadablam-expeditionAma Dablam Expedition (6,814m) situated at the top above the Imja Khola valley in the Khumbu, just above the summer settlement of Dingboche and on the south eastern area from the village of Pangboche, it is regarded as one of the most beautiful mountain in the whole of Himalaya and probably in the world. The name Ama Dablam is derived from the Tibetan language meaning Mother with a Jewel Box, one can make it out if carefully observed from its south western face just near the neck of the peak a large chunk of ice lies dangling like a small jewel box. It is becoming popular among the hardy mountaineers to summit this beautiful peak, which is much technical from either side of this mountain, perched near the Imjatse Valley and Panch Pokhari region.

Ama Dablam is one of the most stunning peaks in the Himalaya. Situated in the heart of Everest’s Kumbu region, it lies next to well worn path to Everest Base Camp and is admired by thousand of trekkers and climbers every year. This expedition offers a superb climbing experience in a magnificent setting, with numerous culture and scenic diversions. The mountain’s impressive beauty has made it a highly coveted prize for climbers. Since its first ascent 1961 by and Anglo-American New Zealand team, it has been climbed frequently and by many different routes.

Our route will be by the original South West Ridge. This gives a superb climb, sustained at a reasonable level of difficulty and with good camp platforms at strategic points along the route. Apart from one short section it is objectively very safe. A route description is included in the detail.

Highlights: exhilarating climb on the summit of Island peak, rich buddhist culture, warm-friendly locals, traditional village, land of worlds heritage, high alpine valley’s in the shade of the mighty Number One ‘Mt.Everest’.

Trip Profile:

Mode of expeditions:      Tea-House / Lodge and Camping.
Trek Grade:                          Adventurous
Climbing Grade:                 Full fledge expeditions
Trekking / Camping:         23 / 24 days. Lukla to Lukla
Total duration:

Outline Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu.1,300m via respective airlines.
Day 02: A day in Kathmandu with 1/2 day sight seeing.
Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding.
Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440m approx. 5-6 hrs.
Day 05: Rest Day at Namche Bazaar.
Day 06: Trek to Thyangboche 3,867m approx 5 hours.
Day 07: Trek to Pangboche 3,900m. 2-3 hrs.
Day 08: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp approx. 4,580m. 4-5 hrs.
Day 09: Rest Day at Base Camp.
Day 10-21: (12 days) Ascent of Ama Dablam.
Day 22: Cleaning up at Base Camp.
Day 23: Trek to Thyangboche 4-5 hrs.
Day 24: Trek to Monjo via Namche Bazaar 5-6 hrs.
Day 25: Trek back to Lukla 4-5 hrs.
Day 26: Fly Lukla-Kathmandu.
Day 27-28: Free day at leisure in Kathmandu.
Day 29: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.

Details Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu.1,300m via respective airlines.
On arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport you will be received by our staff and transfer you to the Hotel, where our guide will give you a brief orientation of the Hotel, Kathmandu, Trek/Camping, do’s and don’t and other related information that you might require while in Nepal.

Day 02: A day in Kathmandu with 1/2 day sight seeing.
After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your half day guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu at places of interest.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla and trek to Phakding 2,650m 3-4 hrs.
Transfer to the domestic airport for one of the great flights of the Himalaya.
If the sky is clear during the flight, one can get the first views of the Mt.Everest.
The Twin-Otter / Dronier or similar aircraft will take to the hillside village of Lukla, the starting point of the trek.   Here meet the staff and the porters and set off straight away for Phakding, situated on the banks of the Dudh Kosi River, which drains the whole of the Khumbu.

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440m 5-6 hrs.
Walk continues up the banks of the Dudh Kosi River, crossing it twice by small suspension bridges, before reaching the village of Monjo, which is the entrance to the Khumbu National Park. Then cross the confluence of the Dudh Kosi and Bhote Kosi rivers on a high suspension bridge and climb steeply for about two hours to Namche Bazaar. This is a prosperous trading town and is the capital of the Khumbu region. Many Tibetans cross the nearby border to trade their wares and the local market is a fascinating spectacle. This is a good place to buy genuine Tibetan artifacts. Just across the valley to the east stand the peaks of Thamserku and Kangtega, both very impressive mountains.

Day 05:A day in Namche Bazaar.
Rest and at leisure allowing the bodies to become more acclimatized to the altitude of 11,300ft /3,440m.

Day 06: Trek to Thyangboche 3,867m 4-5 hrs.
The well worn Everest trail contours around the side of the valley high above the Dudh Kosi, with good views of the great peaks of the Khumbu including – Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse and Ama Dablam and then passing several villages and numerous tea shops, descending steeply to a bridge over the Dudh Kosi. The village on the far side is an excellent lunch spot and here one can rest a little before making the steep climb to Thyangboche. Although tiring, the 2 hours haul up the zig-zag path has numerous distractions, with rhododendron bushes, beautiful birds and superb mountain scenery. Thyangboche is famous for its monastery, the largest in the Khumbu. It was completely destroyed by fire (an elderly monk tried to put out his new electric fire by pushing it face down onto the floor!) but it has now been rebuilt and is as grand as ever.

Day 07: Trek to Pangboche 3,900m. 2-3 hrs.
Descending gradually through woods, cross the Imja tse Khola and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite of Ama Dablam (6,856 m.), and is a good place to stop-by for the lunch and overnight camp overlooking the excellent view of Ama Dablam, Kangtenga and Thermasarkhu. Afternoon free for local hike to the upper village and visit the local old monastery.

Day 08: Trek to Ama Dablam Base Camp approx. 4,580m. 4-5 hrs.
From the camp descend towards the Imjatse River and cross the small wooden bridge, after the river a steep climb of 40 minutes leads to a large meadow with couple of Shepard huts. From here the walk is on the gradual uphill path till the base of Ama Dablam is reached. The camp is on the large field beneath the towering majestic peak of Ama Dablam.

Day 09: Rest Day at Base Camp.
A rest day, an optional hike towards the advance camp with the wonderful views of the surrounding beautiful landscapes.

Day 10-21: Ascent of Ama Dablam.
During these 12 days you will be engrossed dividing the loads and checking your equipment for the final assault.

It is impossible to predict the exact day by day itinerary for this period. The team will be broken down into climbing groups who will work on the mountain for several days before returning for a rest at Base Camp. While one group is pushing out the route and fixing ropes another maybe carrying loads up to higher camps. Ray Delaney climbed the South West ridge of Ama Dablam with Joe Simpson in April 1990.

His route description is as follows. From Base Camp follow old grassy moraine ridges roughly eastwards to a broad saddle from one can see a Mingbo-La. From the saddle turn north and climb up rocky ground and finally through boulders to the ridge below Pt.5, 705 which is the site of camp I. There are four or five tents platforms.

From Camp I: Cross a rocky bowl (tricky if snow covered) until below two rock fingers, then move on to a ridge proper. Climbing the ridge involves rock climbing of severe standard with steps of  VS (USA 5.6) Camp II is at the top yellow tower, which gives one of the hardest pitches on the climb at VS/Hard VS (5.8).

From Camp II:
Skirt a red rock bluff on the east and follow a ramp line to a gray tower. Move into the ramp (some stone fall danger) and climb to an amphitheater. Continue up a broad gully on between the gray tower and the lower rock buttress and climb a snow slope to ‘ Santa’s Grotto’ at the start of Mushroom ridge. Possible bivvy site Follow the mushroom ridge to a crevasse in the upper face, which offers another good bivvy site. Climb the snow/ Ice slope to the right of the face, and then follow mixed ground to the top of the highest hanging glacier. An ice crest now leads in a magnificent position to the summit.

Grand Views! We all need to be back at the base camp by Day 21-22. At this point the porters will arrive for our walk out to Lukla.

Day 22: Cleaning up at Base Camp.
Today after regaining the energy back after the hard climb, every one will be engaged cleaning up the base camp and packing. Please take all the dead used or
unused batteries back home.

Day 23: Trek to Thyangboche. 4-5 hrs.
An easy downhill of few hours brings you back to the Imjatse River after the river a short climb towards Pangboche.

Day 24: Trek to Monjo via Namche Bazaar. 5-6 hrs.
Retrace the journey back to Monjo via Namche Bazaar for the overnight stop.

Day 25: Trek back to Lukla. 4-5 hrs.
Last day of this great trek will be one of the good walk to Lukla, enjoying the lush green scenery around. Apart from few short uphill the only long climb will be just before Lukla which will take approximately 40 minutes from a place called Chop lung or from the old big oak tree. On reaching Lukla, prepare for the last day great dinner and a party with the fellow Sherpa crew, porters and trekking members.

Day 26: Fly Lukla-Kathmandu.
The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason. This scenic flight from Lukla takes about 45 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow capped peaks can be seen from window of the plane. Arriving at Kathmandu domestic terminal, our staff will receive and transfer you back to the Hotel.

Day 27-28: Free day at leisure in Kathmandu.
A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.

Day 29: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket, and your passport handy. Our office staff will take you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.

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