island peak climbing

island-peak-climbingIsland Peak or Imja Tse 6,189m./ 20,305ft.situated at the top of the Imja Khola valley in the Khumbu area, just above the summer settlement of Chhukung, surrounded by the Imja, Lhotse and Lhotse Shar glaciers. It offers a worthwhile challenge to the experienced winter mountaineer, competent in using ice axe and crampons, being technically straight forward, the most difficult section being a mixed rock and ice wall at a slope of around 45 degrees leading to the narrow summit ridge, approximately Scottish Winter Grade 2. The climb will be undertaken towards the end of the trek when everyone will be fully fit and well acclimatised. Trek starts from Lukla after a spectacular mountain flight from Kathmandu.

Making the way first to Namche Bazaar and after two nights here, heading into the high valleys with views of Teng Kangpoche and Kwangde, then to Gokyo and the walk upto Gokyo Ri at 18,000ft. for tremendous panoramic views including Cho Oyu, Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse and Makalu. At Gorak Shep in the Khumbu valley, we walk up to Kala Pattar 5,545m for the classic view of Everest South West Face, then following day walking across the Khumbu glacier to the site of Everest Base Camp at the foot of the Khumbu icefall. Finally heading for the Imja valley and Island Peak Base Camp, where the camp will be established at the base camp of the Island Peaks South ridge, surrounded by stunning ice scenery beneath the immense Nuptse-Lhotse wall which towers above 3,000m. From Island Peak base camp then descend along the Imja Khola to Dingboche and head back to Namche Bazaar, passing through Pangboche and at Thyangboche visit the Buddhist monastery, after descending the hill from Namche, following the Dudh Kosi valley to Lukla with a spectacular mountain flight back to Kathmandu.

”Striking views of array of high snow capped mountains, dramatic landscapes, verdant high valleys, buddhist culture, warm-friendly hospitality of high landers, , breathtaking views, in the heart of world’s heritage ‘Sagarmatha National Park”.

Trip Profile:

Mode of trek / climb: Teahouse / Lodge and camping.
Trek Grade: Adventurous
Climbing Grade: Alpine PD
Trekking / Camping: 17 / 15 days. Lukla to Lukla.
Total duration: 21 / 22 days. Kathmandu to Kathmandu

Outline Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu.1,300m.

Day 02: A day in Kathmandu.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding.

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440m. Approx. 5-6 hrs.

Day 05: Rest Day at Namche Bazaar.

Day 06: Trek to Thyangboche 3,867m.Approx 5 hours.

Day 07: Trek to Pheriche 4,243m. 5 hrs.

Day 08: Trek to Lobuche 4,930m. 5 hrs.

Day 09: Trek to Gorakshep 5,140m / Everest Base Camp 5,360m.

Day 10: Trek to Kalalpathar 5,545m and continue to Dingboche.

Day 11: Trek to Chhukhung 4,730m. 3-4 hrs.

Day 12: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp. 4,970m. 3 hrs.

Day 13: At Base Camp Rest day.

Day 14: Trek & Climb to High Camp. 5,400m. 2-3 hrs climb.

Day 15: Climb to the Summit.

Day 16: Trek back to Dingboche. 5-6 hrs.

Day 17: Trek to Thyangboche. 4-5 hrs.

Day 18: Trek to Namche Bazaar. 4-5 hrs.

Day 19: Trek back to Lukla. 6-7 hrs.

Day 20: Fly Lukla-Kathmandu.

Day 21: Free day in Kathmandu.

Day 22: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.

Details Itinerary

Day 01: Arrive Kathmandu.1,300m.
On arrival at Kathmandu Tribhuvan International Airport you will be received by our staff and transfer you to the Hotel, where our guide will give you a brief orientation of the Hotel, Kathmandu, Trekking /Climbing/Camping, do’s and don’t and other related information that you might require while in Nepal.

Day 02: A day in Kathmandu with 1/2 day sight seeing.
After your first night in Kathmandu, you will be well informed on arrival about the time for your half day guided sightseeing tour in Kathmandu at places of interest.

Day 03: Fly from Kathmandu to Lukla & trek to Phakding.
Approx: 45 minutes flight to Lukla 2,800m 9-10km (2 1/2 -3hr walk) to Phakding at 2,652m. Morning after breakfast transfer to domestic Airport after the necessary security formalities, board in the smaller twin otter or similar plane for the sweeping panoramic flight to Lukla, on arrival you will be received by our trekking guides. In Lukla you will have time to wander around, while the Sherpa crew sort and divide the load baggage to be carried by porters. The walk is gradual and most of the way, with few ups from Tarhe khola, where you can have a superb view of Kusum-Kangru 6,369m crossing a short suspension bridge, from here after a short climb brings us to the Ghat village, another 11/2hr of gradual walk brings you to Phakding village for the overnight stop near the bank of the Dudh-Kosi river.

Day 04: Trek to Namche Bazaar 3,440m. Approx. 5-6 hrs.
From Phakding after crossing the suspension bridge over the Dudh-Kosi the walk is pleasant with few short uphill and downhill and re-crossing the same river again, with magnificent view of Thermasharkhu 6,608m, from the village of Benkar, cross the long suspension bridge over the Bhote-Koshi river, after the bridge on this busy trail of trekkers and Ghopkyo and porters, finally reaching at Monjo. Monjo is situated below the magnificent peak of Thermasharkhu and near the entrance of Sagarmatha National Park. From here a short descend and a gradual walk brings to the suspension bridge over the Bhote-Koshi river, after the bridge Jorsalle village is reached, the last village till Namche Bazaar is reached, from the last bridge over the Imjatse river the walk is along the winding uphill path all the way to Namche Bazaar, with magnificent view of Kwangde peak and it other sister peaks towards east, with Kusum kangru on the back as you climb higher, view of Mt.Everest- Nuptse wall, Lhotse and the closer view of Taweche peak can be seen along the way another 1-2 hour walk reaches you to the famed Namche Bazaar.

Day 05: Rest Day at Namche Bazaar.
Suggested activities a short walk uphill to the Sagarmatha National Park Headquarter, a magnificent spot perched on top of Namche Bazaar with breathtaking view of the surrounding snow capped giants and the valleys way down, with an interesting museum with all kinds of information regarding the history of the Himalayas, geographic, culture, mountaineering history and existing information on flora and fauna of this region.

Day 06: Trek to Thyangboche 3,867m.Approx 5 hours.
The walk is fairly easy for the first half, after a 20 minutes climb to the top ridge of Namche Bazaar, overlooking magnificent view of the great giant snow peaks from Everest, Nuptse, Lhotse, Ama Dablam, Thermasharkhu and Kwangde-ri peak after a pleasant walk of two hours coming to a small place at Shanasa, from Shanasa with short up and downhill, the trial descend to Imjatse river at Phungitenga 3,250m, a small settlement with couple of teahouses, the walk from here is strenuous for an hour on the winding trail through the shade of woods. From here the walk is gradual uphill for another hour, with great view of the close peaks of Thermasarkhu and Kantenga, After hour and half reaching at Thyangboche, one of the most beautiful place in the Himalaya the first thing that comes to your eye is the big Monastery or Ghompa, then the large field with campsites and teahouses, lodges beneath the towering majestic beautiful peak Ama Dablam with Everest looming above the Nuptse wall in the north with Mt. Lhotse and Lhotse Shar towards north east and more peaks all around you.

Day 07: Trek to Pheriche 4,243m. 5 hrs.
We descend steeply through woods, cross the Imja tse Khola and climb steadily to the village of Pangboche. This is directly opposite of Ama Dablam (6,856 m.), and is a good place to stop-by for the lunch. Pheriche is a good two / three hour’s walk beyond and is situated beneath the impressive spires of Cholatse (6,440 m.) and Taweche (6,542 m.).

Day 08: Trek to Lobuche 4,930m. 5 hrs.
Continue the walk up the wide valley beneath the impressive peaks of Cholatse and Taweche on the left. We then turn right and climb more steeply towards the foot of the Khumbu Glacier. The tea house at Dughla is a good spot to have lunch, before the steep climb zig-zagging up through the boulders of the glacier terminal moraine. The top of this climb surprises us by numerous stone cairns-memorable to the many sherpas who have died while climbing on Mount Everest. The path then continues more easily on the left side of the glacier, to eventually reach the cluster of houses at Lobuche.

Day 09: Trek to Gorakshep 5,140m / and continue towards Everest BC 5,360m.
Walking along the side of the Khumbu Glacier which is straight forward at first, but later the path becomes rocky and awkward, climbing across the moraine. The sugar loaf dome of Pumori (7,145 m.) lies directly ahead and to the right, on the opposite side of the glacier, Nuptse rises in a sheer spire. Just behind it, remaining elusive to the last moment is the Mt. Everest. Gorak Shep is another small cluster of tea shops. Directly above Gorakshep is Kala Pattar (5,545m) continues towards Everest Base Camp and to the Khumbu Ice-fall, the path from here can be misleading, follow the lead Sherpa, every year the trail changes due to the movements of the glacier, the walk is quite strenuous due to the high altitude and thin air, the walk passes through over rocky dunes and moraine and streams, till you reach the base camp. Everest Base Camp is lively with commotion during the high expedition season. Head back to Gorakshep for the overnight camp.

Day 10: Hike to Kalapathar and Trek to Dingboche. 4,360m. 4-5 hrs.
Morning hike of two hours to Kalapatthar, on reaching the top enjoy the breathe taking panoramic views of the surrounding snow peaks and the closest view of Mt.Everest, from here return to Gorakshep for the walk towards Dingboche. Retrace the journey back to Thugla, after Thugla a pleasant downhill trek leads to Dingboche in the Imja-tse valley with great views of the surrounding snow capped peaks, including the classic view of Isand peak.

Day 11: Trek to Chhukhung 4,730m. 3-4 hrs.
Today, take an easy walk for about 3 hours climbing up gradually to a small settlement of Chhukhung and camp for the night. The afternoon is spent relaxing and necessary preparations or for an optional hike around, for the exceptional great scenery of the surrounding high peaks and glacier.

Day 12: Trek to Island Peak Base Camp. 4,970m. 3-4 hrs.
The route to Base Camp, the path at first climbs quite steeply to the south before following the moraine east along the main valley below the southern or true left bank of the Lhotse Glacier. The trail then follows glacial streams to the snout of the Imja glacier. At this point the path swings north-east and crosses a dried up lake bed between the Lhotse and Imja Glaciers, from a base camp at Pareshaya Gyab. A well acclamatised party in good condition can make the summit and return in a day back to Base Camp.

Day 13: At Base Camp Rest day.
Acclamatisation with necessary preparations sorting out the gear for the climb.

Day 14: Trek & Climb to High Camp. 5,400m. 2-3 hrs climb. From the base camp the route skirts south-east around the base of Imja Tse between the moraine and the mountain before turning north-east and climbing steep grassy slopes and small rocky steps. Occasional cairns are to be found marking the path. Easy scrambling up an open gully leads between two well defined ridges and the site of high camp on the left-hand ridge below and to the right of a small hanging glacier at 5,280m / 17,323ft. Care should be taken pitching of a camp or bivouac to avoid possible avalanche danger from the ice above. At high camp relaxing and planning, making necessary preparations for the next early morning day climb.

Day 15: Climb to the Summit at 6,189m.
From a high camp on the left-hand ridge scramble across the broad open gully and gain the right-hand ridge. Following this, this gives easy scrambling to the snow-covered glacier above. A route needs to be found out leftwards, avoiding seracs and crevasses before turning back northwards over snow covered scree in the margin between the glacier and the base of the main summit ridge. After crossing a gully with some stone and icefall danger, a steep snow and ice ramp leads upwards for nearly 100 meters (300ft), to the summit ridge. The last moves on to the ridge often prove difficult and many climbers leave a fixed rope in place to aid descent. The ridge itself is a classic and undulates towards the main summit which is reached by a final tricky snow pitch. Standing atop we have the stunning close-up view of the South face of Lhotse (8,501 m.) in vastness that looms before us. We have the impressive dramatic views of the mountains -Amadablam (6,856 m.), Chamlang and Baruntse in the far horizon. Descent is made by the same route to the low base camp.

Day 16: Trek back to Dingboche.
5-6 hrs. Descend to Pareshya Ghyab, continue further along (4,343 m.) the easy trail to Chukung. After lunch we will walk for about 3 hours finally reaching to a village of Dingboche and camp for the night.

Day 17: Trek to Thyangboche. 4-5 hrs walks.
From Dingboche descend all the way to Pangboche, then after the bridge a small climb through the cool shade of the forest reaching to nice spot at Deoboche, from here another 30 minutes of climb to Thyangboche. In the evening visit to the legendary Monastery.

Day 18: Trek to Monjo via Namche Bazaar. 4-5 hrs.
An easy downhill walk to the bridge, from here a steep climb for a while and then reaching the level path towards the village of Shanasha, from here one can take an optional walk to Khumjung and Khunde village before Namche Bazaar. From this village another four hours of good walk leads to Monjo via Namche Bazaar.

Day 19: Trek back to Lukla. 6-7 hrs.
Last day of this great trek will be one of the good walk to Lukla, you can walk at your own best pace, leisurely and enjoying the lush green scenery around. Apart from few short uphill the only long climb will be just before Lukla which will take approximately 45 minutes from a place called Choplung or from the old big oak tree. On reaching Lukla, prepare for the last day great dinner and a party with the fellow Sherpa crew, porters and trekking members.

Day 20: Fly Lukla-Kathmandu.
The flight time to Kathmandu, are schedule for morning normally, because of the wind in the afternoon, sometime the flight time can be delayed due to bad weather and other reason, depending upon the flight time make way to the terminal for security check, this scenic flight from Lukla takes about 30 minutes to Kathmandu, a panoramic view of the snow capped peaks can be seen from window of the plane. Arriving at Kathmandu domestic terminal, our staff will receive and escort you back to the Hotel.

Day 21: Free day at leisure in Kathmandu.
A free day in Kathmandu, please inform our staff if you would like to go on another short tour in and around Kathmandu Valley.

Day 22: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Today as per your international flight time, keep your confirmed air ticket, our office staff will transfer you to the airport for your final departure from this amazing country, Nepal.

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