Mt.Cho Oyo Expeditions

chooyu-expeditionThe world’s sixth highest which straddles between the border with Nepal and Tibet. This massive mountain Cho Oyu stands to the west of Everest range. It was first climbed by an Austrian Expedition in 1954 by the North West Face. This mountain is technically straightforward climb with minimal danger from the Tibet side and that is why Mt. Cho Oyu it offers an excellent choice for mountaineers wishing to climb their first 8000 meter peak.

With its accessibility the logistic planning is much easier, so the base camp can be planned fairly with high items with goodies – beer, wine and cheese and many other things which can make base camp living more comfortable and enjoyable.

Expedition begins from Kathmandu where your visas for Tibet have to be obtained.
Then drive along the Friendship – Highway to Zhangmu at the Nepal-Tibet frontier.
Chinese liaison officers and transport will meet here.  From here travel by bus or jeep with all the equipment going by truck. Normally spend two day in Nylam for acclimatization before driving over the high pass Laylung-la over 5,000m La to Old Tingri.  The mountain stands high above the Tibetan plains and base camp is reached in a couple of hours from Old Tingri.

From the village of Old Tingri the expedition’s trucks pull off the tarmac road and bump up a grassy plain leading up to the Nangpa La.  Here have a couple of options for base camp but normally place it on flat moraine at the foot of the Gyabrag glacier.  A good path leads in about two days to Advanced Base Camp.  Staying here throughout the trip and do not plan to descend until the end of the trip. A Land Cruiser jeep will be permanently on stand – by at the Base Camp for emergency evacuation.

Advance Base Camp (ABC) is at about 5700 meters with stunning views of the surrounding peaks and overlooking the Nangpa La, for centuries a major trading route between Nepal and Tibet.  Over the years many platforms has been cut into the moraine of Advance Base Camp. Our expeditions will have large cook and mess tents and member’s tents which will be placed close by.

From Advance Base Camp it is 6-7 k.m. to the start of the mountain proper.
A faint trail leads through the easy moraine covered glacier. Camp I is situated at 6,400 meters.  If there is no snow there is a steep path up an interminable scree slope which improves the higher you climb.  The camp is located on a broad snow field at the foot of the ridge leading up to a serac barrier which is the only real technical section on the route.

At about 6,900 meters the ridge is blocked by a line of ice cliffs here fixing a new rope.  Normally we will have one rope for the ascent and another for descent on this pitch, which is about 40 meters high.  This is the hardest part of the mountain but is not a difficult. High above the serac climb out onto a plateau cut by huge crevasses,
wending the path between them pitching Camp II at about 7100 meters.

Above Camp II broad snow slopes lead more easily to Camp III at 7500 meters.  This is the highest camp and make the summit bid from here.  Summit day as always involves an early start.  Depending on snow conditions might encounter some easy scrambling as the climb gets in progress making way up and across the low angled west face.

The summit plateau is very large and unfortunately the highest point is a long way back.  However if one’s are lucky with the weather the views are magnificent.  Everest, Lhotse, Nuptse, Chamlang, Ama Dablam and other peaks of the Khumbu are spread out before you, with the view of Mt. Menlungtse and Gaurishankar massifs.
Normally it is possible to descend from the summit all the way to advance base camp on the same day.  This will depend on snow conditions and members fitness.

Trip Profile:

Season:                                    Spring & Autumn:
Expeditions Region:                From Tibet side.
Expeditions Duration:            41-42 days (Kathmandu to Kathmandu)

OUT LINE ITINERARY:

DAY 01: ARRIVE IN KATHMANDU
DAY 02: FREE DAY IN KATHMANDU.
DAY 03: DRIVE TO THE SIDE OF THE BORDER OR ZHANGMU.
DAY 04: TRAVEL TO NYALAM 3600m.
DAY 05: DRIVE TO OLD TINGRI 4500m.
DAY 06: DRIVE TO CHO OYU BASE CAMP 4800m.
DAY 07 – 08: AT BASE CAMP.
DAY 09 – 10:             OVERNIGHT CAMP ON ROUTE TO ADVANCE CAMP.
DAY 11 – 37: CLIMB PERIOD OF CHO OYU.
DAY 38: LOWER CHINESE BASE CAMP.
DAY 39: DRIVE TO ZHANGMU
DAY 40: DRIVE TO KATHMANDU.
DAY 41: AT LEISURE IN KATHMANDU.
DAY 42: INTERNATIONAL DEPARTURE.

Details Itinerary

DAY 01: ARRIVE IN KATHMANDU.
On arrival our staff will meet and escort you to the respective Hotel.
Kathmandu is a mixture of Tibetan Buddhism, Hinduism and Western influence,
there are great many attractions and sightseeing tour can be arranged with a guide accompanying you (optional) and explore the city at your convenience.

DAY 02: KATHMANDU – FREE DAY.
Today obtain all the papers and applicable Tibet entryvisa and permits and to
packing of equipment for the expeditions.

DAY 03: NEPAL SIDE OF THE BORDER OR ZHANGMU
Early morning board on the bus for the drive to the Tibetan border.  The journey normally takes about 5 hours but the condition of the road can be bad and landslides can sometimes double this journey time.  We will stay on the Nepalese side of the border, or perhaps in Zhangmu, just up the hill on the Tibetan side.   

DAY 04: TRAVEL TO NYALAM 3600m.
The name of this town in Chinese literally means the road to hell’ and you may have opportunity to see why as the jeeps and trucks wend their way up the precipitous mountain road.  The journey to Nylam is a short day and offering opportunity to acclimatise.

DAY 05: DRIVE TO OLD TINGRI 4500m.
A spectacular day as the route climbs up to 5000 meters. If the weather is clear the views from this road are absolutely superb. On arriving in Tingri get the first views of the mountain across the grassy plains.

DAY 06: DRIVE TO CHO OYU BASE CAMP 4800m.
This takes about two hours at the most, campsite is known locally as Chinese Base Camp and after establishing the camp rest and enjoy the views.  The camp is pleasantly situated on grass beside a river.     

DAY 07 – 08: AT BASE CAMP.
S
pending two days at the Base Camp for acclimatisation, to prepare equipment for the yak to carry towards Advance Base Camp.  All the equipment is transported in blue plastic drums or kit bags and it is usual to have in the region of 60 yaks to transport all our supplies and equipment.

DAY 09 – 10:             OVERNIGHT CAMP ON ROUTE TO ADVANCE CAMP.
It takes two days to trek to Advance Base Camp near the foot of the Nangpa La Pass.  All the expedition equipment will be carried on yaks and trek alongside with day packs.  One overnight camp is needed on route to Advance Base.

DAY 11 – 37: CLIMB OF CHO OYU.
The expedition leader will control the daily routine of the expedition.  Normally establish camp I, at 6400 meters and camp II, at 7100 meters before returning to Advance Base Camp to rest.  Our Sherpa team will then establish camp III, at 7,500 meters with team members sleeping only one night at this top camp before going to the summit.      

DAY 38: LOWER CHINESE BASE CAMP.
On this day all expedition members and Sherpas guides have to be back at the lower Chinese Base Camp where the truck and bus transport will be waiting for us.
Everything will be packed into the blue plastic expedition drums for the return journey to Kathmandu.If the road is in good condition it is sometimes possible to go to Kathmandu in one day from the Base Camp.  More likely though, we will want to enjoy the journey back across the Tibetan plains to the lush valleys of Nepal.       

DAY 39: DRIVE TO ZHANGMU.
Loading all the equipment onto a truck, then drive to the border which we cross and descend to Kodari where one has to obtain the Nepali visas.

DAY 40: DRIVE TO KATHMANDU.
This will be an enjoyable journey down the Sunkoshi river valley.  Some members may wish to enjoy the scenery from the roof of the bus.  We should arrive into Kathmandu in the early afternoon, assuming there are no landslides to slow the journey.

DAY 41: AT LEISURE IN KATHMANDU.
 Free day for individual activities, for the last minute souvenir shopping or relax at your hotel. Kathmandu can always be an exciting place that you will never run out of anything to see or do. Perhaps in the evening have a get together farewell party a great celebration including the Sherpas and other friends from the city, somewhere in a decent restaurant before leaving Kathmandu.

DAY 42: DEPARTURE – Transfer to Intl. Airport to fly home.

Details Cost

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