MT. Everest Expedition North Ridge
The North side of Mount Everest is considerably more impressive than the south (Nepal) side. Rising in a sheer 10,000 ft / 3,000 m. from the Rongbuk Glacier, it towers above the Tibetan Plateau. It was to this side of the mountain that the British Expedition in the 1920’s and 30’s came, when Nepal was closed to foreigners.
Since its first ascent by the Chinese in 1960, the North Ridge has been climbed numerous times. In the last few years it has received the attention of several commercial expeditions, and with careful planning the same success rates as the south sides are possible. Gaining 8000m is demanding but it is the last 848m that are the most difficult.
The company will run expeditions during both the pre & post monsoon periods. Late May offers the greatest chances of reaching the summit, after acclimatising in April and the early part of May, a good rest at base camp the warm summer winds, as they have in the past, will often allow those on the summit to shoot photographs without wearing gloves. Only with good preparation and back-up is this possible.
Experience Required….. Applicants for the expedition should have proven high-altitude experience of 6,500m. Plus, and be technically competent mountaineers. Climbers wishing to apply for the expedition should send a resume of their climbing experience and obtain acceptance before sending a deposit. Following acceptance, members can confirm a place with a deposit on a first come, first served basis.
Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu. Transfer to Hotel.
On arrival our staff will transfer you to the respective Hotels and the staff will brief you about the expeditions.
Day 02: At leisure in Kathmandu.
While the company sorts out the expedition paperwork, you will be able to explore the fascinating medieval city. It is a wonderful mixture of crowded bazaars, Hindu and Buddhist temples, shrines and ancient, colonial and modern architecture.
Day 03: At leisure in Kathmandu.
This is the last chance to sort out equipment and forgotten items. Will spend part of the day packing loads for the journey to base camp and finalize all plans. This is your last day before the trip starts, enjoy it!
Day 04 – 09: Drive to Nylam 3,800m. 6-7 hrs journey.
Make way to Kodari and across the Friendship Bridge into Tibet. Depending how long the journey takes on the first day we might stay in Zhangmu or Nylam. Will spend days acclimatizing along the way to base camp as we pass through Tingri and Xegar.
Day 10: Drive to Everest Base Camp 5,200m via Rongbuk Monastery 5-6 hrs.
Arrive at Everest Base camp. On the way passing over the Pang La (16,400 ft/ 5,000 m) which gives great views of the route and the entire North East Face of Everest. The road then descends to the foot of the Rongbuk valley and before it reaches base camp with a stop at the Rongbuk Monastery.
Day 11 – 12: On Route to Advance Base Camp 5,800m.
Pack loads for the yaks to go to advanced base camp, which is 22 km up the valley, requiring two days to reach. There are easy walks to do back to the Monastery and towards the mountain, but rest is the key to acclimatization at this point.
Day 13 – 15: Load the yaks and head to ABC 6.550m.
There are fantastic views of the North Face of Everest if the clouds permit and then later in the day before reaching intermediate camp. Will make camp by the river at the half way point, then set off early in the morning with the yaks on the second day to allow plenty time in the afternoon to set up a rudimentary camp for the evening, of course to be finished the next day.
Day 16 – 35: ASCENT OF MOUNT EVEREST.
20 Days Reserved for the summit top, from ABC follow the moraine towards the North Col. and cross the glacier easily to its foot. About 1,000 ft / 300 m of fairly deep snow climbing leads to the Col at 7,066 m. The Col forms a fairly wide ridge which has ample room for tents. This will be Camp I. To the south, the Col rises to become the North Ridge. This is straight-forward snow climbing, eventually steeping into rocky shelves and short buttresses. A second camp will be placed at around 7,700 m.
The route to the North East Ridge leading from the top of the North Ridge to the summit will depend on conditions prevailing at the time. We will either follow the North Ridge in it’s entirely to the crest of the North-North-East Ridge or make a rising traverse to the right to reach the ridge at a higher point. Last camp will be placed at around 8,300 m.
The final section of the climb takes in the notorious first and second steps. These are short, but abrupt rises on the North-East Ridge, which will provide testing climbing at extreme altitude! It was on the second step that Mallory and Irvine were last seen before they disappeared in 1924. Once this has been ascended, the ridge leads more easily to the summit.
Day 36: Yaks arrive at ABC to return to base camp.
All loads must be carried down at this time, this includes garbage.
Day 37: Descend to base camp.
Start to organize departure from Everest.
Day 38: Pack up base camp.
Prepare every thing for an early departure the next morning.
Day 39: Drive back to Zhangmu 1,700m. 5-6 hrs journey.
Drive as far as possible, if conditions are good and everybody is willing, it is possible in one long day to reach Kathmandu, or sleep in Zhangmu.
Day 40: Free day in Kathmandu, or reach Kathmandu.
A free day to submit the expeditions report to respective Government department,
and a leisure day, please inform our staff if you would like to go on a short tour in
and around Kathmandu.
Day 41: Transfer to Airport for the International departure.
Depending upon your flight time, our staff will transfer you to the International airport for the flight back home or to your respective destination.
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