Shisa Pangma Expedition

mt_shisapangmaIt is the last of the 8,000m peaks to be climbed. Not that its ascent the North-West Ridge presents any great difficulty. On the contrary, it is now regarded as one of the most straight-forward 8,000 climbs and its summit is frequently achieved. Regarded as a “holy” mountain by the local Tibetan population, and lying on the route to Mt. Kailash, Shishapangma continues to baffle us. Historians cannot fathom her names – Shishapangma, Xixabangma, Gosainthan, and surveyors seem unable to fix her height (anything from 8,012m to 8,046m). Even the first ascent by the Chinese in 1964 is questioned, due to the lack of photographic evidence and the fact that the summit ridge sports several subsidiary “summits”. Yet, the mountain is perhaps the most accessible of her genre, rising only a few miles west of the Kathmandu-Lhasa Highway.

It was 16 years before the mountain received its second ascent, by a West German team in 1980, and it has been climbed every year since. The first Britons to climb it were Doug Scott, Alex Mclntyre and Roger Baxter-Jones via a new route on the South Face in 1982.

The original North West Ridge route is an excellent objectively quite safe, and the terrain offers good camp sites at the Tibetan Plateau (lying in the Himalayan Shadow) usually provide excellent topping-out opportunities.

Trip Profile:

Mode of Expeditions:          Lodge and camping from Base Camp onwards.
Climb Grade:                       A Mountaineering expeditions.
Climbing period:                 36-37 days.
Total Trip:                             41-42 days.

Outline Itinerary:

Day 01: Arrive in Kathmandu 1,320m.and transfer to Hotel.
Day 02-3: In Kathmandu preparation for the expeditions and local tour.
Day 04: Drive to Zhangmu (2,300 m)-123 Kms.  5-6 hrs.
Day 05: Drive to Nylam 3,800m. 35 km.  2-3 hrs.
Day 06-7: At Nylam for acclimatisation.
Day 08: Drive to Shishapangma Base Camp 4,900m 3-4 hrs.
Day 09-10-11: At Shishapangma Base Camp.
Day 12: Trek to Advance Base Camp (ABC). (5,800m.)
Day 13: At Advance Base Camp.
Day 14-35: 22 Days Climbing Period.
Day 36: Return to Advance Base Camp.
Day 37: Return to Base Camp.
Day 38: Cleaning up Base Camp.
Day 39: Drive to Nylam.
Day 40: Drive back to Kathmandu.
Day 41: In Kathmandu.
Day 42: International departure from Kathmandu.